Lawrence, Kansas, may look like a picture-perfect Midwestern paradise with its charming Massachusetts Street lined with independent shops, bustling cafes, and vibrant cultural spots. But this progressive haven has a turbulent past that has shaped its resilient spirit. Named one of America’s Best Towns to Visit in 2026, Lawrence is a place where history, community, and creativity thrive.
A Downtown That Defied the Odds
Massachusetts Street—known locally as Mass—is the heart of Lawrence. It’s a walkable strip where you’ll find beloved institutions like Sylas & Maddie’s Homemade Ice Cream (offering 100 flavors), the Raven Book Store, and the family-run Waxman Candles, which has been operating since the 1970s. In the 1980s, when enclosed malls threatened downtowns across America, Lawrence residents banded together through Downtown Lawrence Inc. to stop a mall development that would have demolished historic buildings. Their success preserved the street’s unique character, which remains a magnet for visitors today.
A History of Overcoming Adversity
Founded in 1854 by abolitionists, Lawrence was attacked by pro-slavery forces just months later. During the Civil War, Confederate raiders led by William Quantrill killed 150 men and boys in a brutal raid. Each time, the town rose from the ashes—its official symbol is a phoenix. The Eldridge Hotel, rebuilt on the site of its twice-destroyed predecessor, stands as a testament to that resilience. The town also played a key role in the Underground Railroad and later became a haven for civil rights and LGBTQ+ activism.
University of Kansas and Basketball Legacy
Perched on Mount Oread, the University of Kansas overlooks the town. It’s home to the Spencer Museum of Art, with works by Georgia O’Keeffe and Dale Chihuly, and a vast photography archive. Basketball is almost a religion here—the sport’s inventor, James Naismith, brought the game to Lawrence and coached legendary Phog Allen. Fans still visit their graves to pay tribute.
Haskell Indian Nations University
Another important institution is Haskell Indian Nations University, originally a federal boarding school that sought to strip Native American children of their heritage. Today it is a respected intertribal university celebrating Indigenous culture. Its Medicine Wheel, adorned with personal offerings, is a poignant symbol of healing.
What to See and Do
- Eat: 40 daily ice cream flavors at Sylas & Maddy’s
- Drink: Ad Astra Amber Ale at Free State Brewing Company
- Stay: The historic Eldridge Hotel
- Shop: Wonder Fair for whimsical stickers and prints
- Explore: Watkins Museum of History for the town’s dramatic past
Lawrence is more than a scenic stop—it’s a community that has continually fought to preserve its soul. Whether you’re drawn by its independent spirit, its rich history, or its vibrant cultural scene, this Kansas gem offers an experience unlike any other.
